Over the past few years, vital conversations have been brewing around diversity and inclusion in the fashion industry—but are words turning into actions that will bring about permanent change?
Behind the lens, the likes of Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and PR guru Sandrine Charles are making strides with the Black In Fashion Council, which partners with fashion companies including Condé Nast, Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger to hold them accountable for putting an end to systemic racism.
Meanwhile, on the runway, racial diversity has improved with 41.3% of castings for spring 2021 going to models of color according to The Fashion Spot’s diversity report, up from a meagre 17 per cent in 2015. Progress over the years hasn’t been on a consistent upwards gradient though, and age, size and gender representation all took a downward slide this season.
This fluctuation over time, and the dearth of intersectionality in the fashion and beauty industry, was articulated by the models Aaron Philip and Chella Man in a recent Vogue interview. “I feel parts of myself represented,” the latter explained. “Typically, I have to categorize the representation I am looking for. If it is queer, I will go one place. Deaf? Another.” Both Man and Philip have had successful careers, starring in campaigns for Calvin Klein and Moschino respectively but, as they say, the industry isn’t doing enough to uplift the voices of BIPOC, disabled and LGBTQ+ people.
The responsibility of creating a fashion industry that accurately mirrors society falls on everyone working in it and, as the people who present the models to walk in designers’ shows, and star in campaigns and magazine shoots, casting directors play a crucial role. Here, four who are helping lead the charge in diverse and inclusive casting through their work with Pyer Moss, Marine Serre, Chromat, and GmbH, among other brands, share the stories behind their processes, the challenges they’ve faced and how they hope it will evolve from here.
In 2011, Affa Osman relocated from Switzerland to Berlin to take up an internship with a modeling agency. “My parents came to Europe from Ethiopia and Yemen,” the 29-year-old explains. “They couldn’t afford to pay my way, so I just hoped that it would turn into a job.” The risk paid off: Osman was quickly promoted to an agent and started moonlighting as a casting director. His big break came in 2017 when he did the casting for the music video for Kendrick Lamar’s Element, and this year he started collaborating with eco-conscious German label GmbH.