It was a proper British time at the David Koma show in London today. The sky was a glum shade of gray. Rain was whipping as guests lined up outside the Leadenhall Building. As we waited, and waited, and waited to be admitted inside, gusts of wind began to lift skirts up around stomachs revealing tights, knickers, or for some unfortunate editors out there, bare legs and bums. It was not exactly a high point of London Fashion Week, but it did feel particularly Bridget Jonesian.
David Koma’s experience of London typically has less to do with the kind of dry wit Brits are known for and more to do with a catty kind of poshness and glamour. But he tried his hand at the former on the runway today with an irreverent collection that saw the designer put his twist on all things traditionally London. Some of the references were instantly obvious: the “Gherkin” building as an elaborately beaded minidress; the Union Jack stamped on the heels of pumps; the cityscape print translated into bike messenger shirts and shorts. Others took a bit more reading into, like the emerald jewelry and pannier skirts—simultaneous nods to Princess Di and Dame Viv. Where Koma was most exciting was in his experiments into casualwear, including flight jackets, shrugged on knits, and rainy-day gray denim. These were clothes that looked comfortable, easily translating his full-on fashion fantasy into daywear. Koma’s not done with sexing it up, but now his velvet-boned corsets are made of stretch. With a giant flask purse—his first foray into handbags—and a pair of crystal-studded shades, you’d be ready to party. Only thing missing is an umbrella.