The pantheon of Versace muses is a rather crowded one: Actresses and models and pop stars have all become part of the Versace family, fronting advertising campaigns and filling the front rows at the brand’s fashion shows. A celebrity herself, Donatella Versace knows well enough how to work the power of fame to get her message across. But the pandemic has her switching gears. What she had in mind for pre-fall weren’t the superstar regulars usually embodying the label’s high-octane glamour.
“The collection is dedicated to all those men and women who are self-confident, aware of who they are, authentic,” she said via email. “It’s a celebration of individual identity and personality. Fashion and style become even more a way to express one’s own ideas. In fact, I believe that today, it’s not just about a fashion show or a campaign, but the extent to which fashion is shaping the way people dress and interact with one another by expressing their own ideas and values.” Then she concluded, “In a world that has gone through a drastic change, desires and needs have changed along with us and this collection is Versace’s answer.”
Addressing a changed landscape with an eye to IRL needs, the collection was focused on dressing a broader spectrum of people with different personalities and characters. That said, Versace kept things simpler and cleaner here; after an energized, color-fueled outing for spring, she toned down her register a notch. Shot against a stark white background, the lookbook images signaled a cohesive, streamlined approach for both the men’s and women’s offerings. Although silhouettes exuded a strong and assertive appeal—tailored broad shoulders, precise yet sensual contours, powerful proportions—their design seemed to highlight a more considerate focus on comfort. Prints were scaled back, with only the Barocco-flage motif making a flamboyant appearance; the color palette was quieter, centering on black and caramel with pops of brights; and the use of logo was decidedly more restrained. Individual items looked smart and wearable, while retaining that powerful fizz of Versace glam.
According to the studio design team, Donatella wanted to infuse pre-fall with a joyous spirit and a sense of warmth; she felt the need of a more tactile approach, which was in evidence in the choice of sensible fabrics—knitted textures, cashmeres, recycled and eco-sustainable light wools. “The gloss often looks untouchable,” she apparently said. Which sounds utterly spot-on in our present situation. These days, the luxuries we crave are definitely closeness and heart-warming human connection.